Saturday 28 July 2012

Sailing (motor boating really) Croatia

From barefaced rocky mountains to lush green vineyards, the Dalmatian coastline we passed by and Adriatic islands we visited on our 7 day journey from Split to Dubrovnik were simply stunning.  Each town or village we stopped at had a different feel to it and loads of history to boot, not to mention amazing fresh food and tasty local drinks.  On this trip we had the perfect combination of swimming, relaxing on board and land exploration.  Below is a brief outline of the excitement each day brought for us.

Day 1 Split-Makarska
We left busy, bustling, dusty Split early afternoon and enjoyed a hearty lunch after a quick meet & greet whilst heading south down the coast to Makarska.  En route we stopped for a quick spot of swimming off the back of the boat before continuing our journey, hugging the spectacular coastline.
Once docked in Makarska we made a beeline for the beach and enjoyed the first, of many to come, dips in pebbly beaches before finding a restaurant with a lovely, leafy secret garden in which to enjoy our dinner.
Day 2 Makarska to Stari Grad
No need for an alarm, at 7am sharp the engine started and we were on our way.  We cut across from the mainland coastline to cruise alongside the island of Brac for a while before then heading over to an inlet on the island of Hvar for a lengthy swim stop.   Danielle floated away a couple of hours on her throne-like li-lo  whilst Julian had all sorts of fun; jumping off the boat, swimming across to land and investigating the sea bed amongst other things.
In the afternoon we docked at Stari Grad-the old town of Hvar.  A cute but lively village where we quickly located their main beach to cool off before heading off on a 3 hour guided cycle trek of some of the island.  The tour took us through the UNESCO listed Faroe vineyards and across to other side of the island to a fishing/holiday village where an ice-cream stop was called for! After a slight mountain climb and rewarding downhill run with views across the wine fields we joined our fellow cruisers for a meat fest.
Day 3 Stari Grad to Hvar
Big day of swimming!  We left port shortly after breakfast and found a secluded little bay not too far away where we anchored in for a couple of hours of swimming time.  After a couple of warm up jumps from the middle level, Julian progressed to leaping off the top level much to the delight of fellow cruisers!
After lunch we headed closer to our destination for another swim stop in quiet bay to enjoy the sunshine and pass the time till the boat was permitted to dock in Hvar.  When we eventually docked we made a beeline for the fortress, steadily climbing the stairs and making the sweaty ascent to the top to be rewarded with spectacular views of the town of Hvar and the islands surrounding it. 

Day 4 Hvar to Vis
The journey across an open strait from Hvar to Vis, the outermost island of the Adriatic group, was a little turbulent and made everyone all the more grateful when we anchored in yet another secluded bay for some swimming.  Unfortunately we had to leave our piece of paradise after a few short hours as the wind had picked up and the captain was a little nervous for his boat so we headed for the port in Vis a little earlier than planned.  No great drama though as it meant we had time to hire some bikes and cruise around the lengthy promenade, explore the monastery and huff and puff our way to the top of a hill to see an old fortress.
Looking down from the fortress
Day 5 Vis to Korcula
The weather was not in the spirit of sailing Croatia at all with grey, gloomy skies and quite a hit of rain.  The boat was very quiet, with everyone taking the opportunity to get a significant chunk of holiday reading done.  Eventually after lunch, the sun came out just enough to make a swim stop somewhat enjoyable but it was only a quick one as the port authorities were demanding our presence in our destination, Korcula. 
This was a gem of an island town, with a gorgeous and well preserved old town in which we spent a bit of time just ambling up and down the narrow cobblestone alleyways and exploring the nooks and crannies which these places have in abundance. 
Day 6 Korcula to Mljet
Well this would have to have been our busiest day so far!  We were up at an ungodly holiday hour to be breakfasted and ready for our kayaking trip by 8am.  On said kayaking trip, our guide took us paddling to a small island where we stopped for a snorkel and sea urchin tasting before being whizzed back to our boat with a lovely (and possibly too early?) wine and antipasto treat.
Our boat had moved out of port and onto greener pastures, no waters (hehe) to our loveliest swim stop yet where everyone from the boat just floated about the turquoise waters in the dazzling sunshine.  Shortly after lunch we docked in Mljet where we wandered through the national park, which dominates the island, caught a ferry across a lake on the island to an island on the island (phew!) where a monastery is situated.  We then returned back and floated about the almost bath like temperature lake for the afternoon before enjoying sunset cocktails by the water.

Day 7 Mljet to Dubrovnik
There was a big, collective sigh of sadness on our last day of the trip.  We left Mljet early in the morning as we had a fair bit of motoring to do in order to get to Dubrovnik by mid-afternoon.  We made a quick stop for our final Adriatic Island swim/float about before lunch and then made a beeline for the port.
Once in hot, hot Dubrovnik we did the 2km wall walk which took us right around the old town, literally on top of the wall which encloses the city.  We took advantage of a bar which was located on the rocks between the wall and the sea and Julian made the most of the opportunity to take a jump into the water from this bar! A bit of a wander through the town, a quiet dinner and drinks on board with fellow cruisers was a lovely way to spend our final hours after seven glorious days away.
The bar by the wall, complete with rocks to jump off into the water

I've compiled a number of photos of this trip which you can find here

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